Monday, 30 November 2015

Week 34 in London and Bath Christmas Markets

Week 34: 23 - 29 November 2015

Although the days are getting significantly shorter and the temperature significantly colder, we were still both due for a haircut. Strangely, we have found that over here the idea of cutting hair to thin it out is just not something the Brits are familiar with.

Roslyn put out a call to the Aussies in London Facebook page for any Australian hair dressers over here that own thinning scissors and know what to do with them. We had success, and on Thursday evening went across to Fulham. Although the setup was far from being a salon (sitting on a dining chair in the girl’s share house bathroom), the final result was positive.

On Saturday, we joined a bus tour bound once again for Bath, this time to experience the renowned Bath Christmas Markets. This is far beyond your standard village market. The Christmas Markets comprise more than 170 wooden chalet-style market stalls lining the streets and squares around the City centre. Many of the chalet stalls are dusted with “snow”, as are the imitation ski lodges.





There is all manner of handcrafted goods on offer, gourmet delicacies and plenty of hot mulled wine/cider/apple juice and fruit mince pies. It was opening weekend and yet the chilly conditions, caused by a fusion of low temperatures, wind and rain that came down nearly all day long, did not seem to deter visitors. Brendan continued on his quest to eat all things venison, this time it was a venison pie for lunch.



Just shy of boarding the bus to return home, we wandered up to the Royal Crescent. This impressive arc of 30 homes is considered one of Bath’s landmarks, but if architecture and housing aren’t a key interest of yours you probably wouldn’t go and see them.

Construction on the homes was completed in 1775, and while all homes have a uniform appearance externally, purchasers were free to craft the internal layout as suited them. This means that today, while they all look identical, no 2 homes are the same. The homes are arranged around a manicured lawn looking out to Royal Victoria Park, with a ha-ha acting as a divide between the public parkland and private lawns. A ha-ha is a recessed landscape element (essentially a ditch), designed to create some form of barrier while also preserving unobstructed views. In addition, the ha-ha at Royal Crescent has a stone wall to further define the divide between the public and private realm.


We returned to London, but around half an hour later disaster struck when we realised that our day’s shopping had been left behind on the now long departed tour bus. After several attempts at calling and text messaging our tour guide, the bus company, and the bus driver the loot was located safe and sound.

On Sunday, Brendan meandered through the tube system to the other side of London to pick up our shopping from the day before while Roslyn went to the Tower of London and drinks afterwards with Mel.

Highlights for the week:
- Our first thinned-out haircuts
- Bus trip to Bath with Aussies in London
- Bath Christmas Markets
- Drank hot mulled wine/cider/apple juice
- Being in a snow globe
- Brendan ate venison pie
- Royal Crescent and the ha-ha
- Roslyn went to Tower of London
- Roslyn had drinks with Mel



Sunday, 29 November 2015

Week 33 in London and ‘hola España!’

Week 33: 16 – 22 November 2015

On Monday, Roslyn was up and out of the house by 5:30am departing for her week of warmth in Barcelona, Spain for work.

This ran from Monday to Thursday, and so in order to make the most of the time there, Brendan joined her on Thursday. We then spent Thursday through Saturday in Barcelona, meaning that our "week" in London was really on Monday to Wednesday (for Brendan) and Sunday for the both of us.

Having been adventurous enough a few weeks ago to give venison a try, Brendan now believes it is better than beef. We usually find that the beef over here isn't as good as that in Australia and so tend to steer (mind the pun) away from it.

We aren't sure whether venison isn't as popular in Australia or whether we've just never noticed it, but it seems to be relatively easy to find over here. Although it remains more boutique than, say, pulled pork or salted caramel, you can get it in burgers and sausages at market stalls and from the meat fridge at supermarkets. Brendan enjoyed a venison steak for dinner on Monday night, from our local cheap and cheerful grocer Asda.


Meanwhile in Barcelona, Roslyn's colleagues were enjoying their own slabs of meat.


Brendan posted our Christmas presents for home on Tuesday and some £130 later, realized that small things with minimal weight are much better gifts when sending abroad.

On Thursday, Brendan also left home in the early hours of the morning bound for Barcelona via Gatwick Airport.

We returned to London on Saturday afternoon, where it had been sleeting earlier in the day. The temperature by 7pm was a reawakening 2°C.


Roslyn's work provided us with a private hire car transfer from the airport back to our house. Strange as it sounds, there was something quite relaxing and settling about spending the approximate hour long journey in the back seat of a quiet and smooth riding car, very different to the tube and buses that we are used to.

Highlights for the week:
- Roslyn departed for Barcelona, early Monday morning
- Brendan discovered venison steak
- Posted Christmas presents back home
- Brendan left for Barcelona, early Thursday morning
- Minor snow in London on Saturday


Monday, 23 November 2015

Barcelona, Spain

16 – 21 November 2015:

Although the Running of the Bulls or the tomato throwing extravaganza of La Tomatina are well known, we feel like Spain and the Spanish culture are a bit underrated. Chorizo, tapas, paella and sangria, has anyone ever not enjoyed this stuff?! Plus there’s sun, warmth and impressive architecture.

Roslyn touched down in Barcelona just before midday on Monday, pleasantly discovering that a Spanish winter is like a London summer.

IBTM World is a leading global event for the meetings and events industry, with the exhibition running from Tuesday to Thursday. Roslyn’s attendance with London & Partners was as exhibitor, showcasing a select range of London’s meeting and business travel venues and services. Monday was spent setting up the red branded stand. The end result was a hall of an impressive scale filled with colourful displays, and arranged by geographical regions. On Monday night, there was a partner dinner for all 26 occupiers of the London & Partners stand.


Because the majority of stands had their own catering and bars (intended for the stall holders themselves), following on from opening day Tuesday there was a happy hour followed by a welcome reception. Second day Wednesday also ended with another happy hour, as well as a singing performance by the eccentric brand ambassador for Holland.

On Thursday, Brendan arrived in Barcelona with a second printout of Roslyn’s entry pass in hand. He ambitiously managed to make his way onto the ‘exhibitor only’ shuttle bus between the airport and show. Along the way, he noticed that Barcelona seems to have a significant amount of redundant roads and car parks. The airport alone has acres and acres of empty and disused bitumen car parks being swallowed by nature. One car park had a small palm tree emerging from between a join. Perhaps a lot of this has been left over from the Olympics of 1992.

With the same printout of Roslyn’s entry pass, Brendan was also able to gain entry into the exhibition. Given that the target market for the exhibition isn’t individual tourists, there wasn’t really a lot that Brendan could do, but the scale of the exhibition and investment that had been put into some stands was definitely impressive and still provided some helpful ideas for future travel. He also did his best to pick up any souvenirs from the stands.


The show wound down on Thursday afternoon and the majority of Roslyn’s colleagues flew back to London that evening. A fortunate booking error meant we were able head back for the night to the 5 star Hotel Eurostars Grand Marina, located on the harbour. Prior to the 1992 Olympics, this area known as Port Vell (old harbour) was an industrial wasteland plagued by abandoned warehouses and just generally lacking any appeal. The area went through a massive urban transformation to become a yacht basin and entertainment precinct and is now highly frequented by tourists. We assume that the overall concept is similar to Sydney’s Darling Harbour, Melbourne’s Docklands, or Canberra’s Kingston Foreshore. We made our way across the intriguingly contemporary Rambla de Mar bridge, and hunted out tapas for dinner.

We rose on Friday and headed downstairs for a buffet breakfast, before checking out of luxury ahead of our meagre €66 hostel room for Friday night. Once again, we planned on going on a Sandemans free walking tour at 2pm and so wandered up the famous La Rambla, and down the narrow streets in search of the meeting point. Barcelona is a bit strange in that there is quite a lot of graffiti and yet it still feels clean.

We wandered around the area surrounding the cathedral known simply as the Cathedral of Barcelona.



In this time we also located the accommodation that we will be returning to in a few weeks with Roslyn’s family. We went in, and the lady on reception even took us up to show the apartment.

We joined our Sandemans tour of the city that the Romans of 15BC called Barcino, and wandered the city for about 2 hours. Interestingly, our guide told us that the Olympics really helped lift Barcelona to become a tourist destination. The beaches and palm trees of Barcelona today did not exist prior to this. It seems amazing that a city that has firmly established itself as a prominent tourist destination has risen from a place practically not visited as recently as 20 odd years ago.

One of the most interesting things that our guide told us is that at the time of our visit there is movement for Barcelona and the surrounding region of Catalonia to divorce the rest of Spain and become independent in their own right. There are of course complicated politics behind it all, but historically this area has gone through plenty of changes in ‘ownership’. Differentiating themselves from the rest of Spain, Catalonians even have their own slightly variegated language.

Our guide also said that while Catalonia has quite a prosperous economy, the rest of Spain does not, and many of the locals don’t like having to prop up the rest of the country. This is surely also a contributing factor to the independent movement.

Our tour ended at the El Born Cultural Centre, another fairly modern attraction. This building was once a market hall but after being abandoned and falling into decay, refurbishment work started in 2002. This refurbishment work uncovered 18th century remains and so the hall has since become an archaeological showcase.


We then jumped in a taxi and made the trip up the hill to the monolithic Basilica de la Sagrada Familia. This church is just absolutely enormous, and towers above anything else surrounding it. With construction having commenced in the late 1800’s, the church is still a construction site today and the structure is not expected to be fully complete for another several years. After checking into the hostel, we then went out for dinner at a restaurant called Taller de Tapas, it was both delicious and reasonably priced!


Our flights home on Saturday weren’t until the afternoon, so we went up to Montjuic Castle, a former military fortress, in the morning. Sitting atop a hill and accessed via chairlift that is a clear enclosed pod, the ride up to the castle provides an amazing outlook across the ocean of red rooves and the sheer size of the distant Sagrada Familia becomes even more apparent.


As we neared the time of our departure, we stopped in for a final feed at a restaurant/bar on La Rambla. An entertainingly flamboyant host greeted us and sat us down, and before we’d even decided whether we were staying, going, eating or just getting a drink, he’d instructed the waitress that we were having “lunch, lunch, definitely darling”. As we discovered throughout the course of the meal, his favourite saying was “fabulous darling!”


Highlights:
- Exhibition set up on Monday, and partner dinner
- Tuesday opening day of the show with a happy hour and welcome reception to end the day
- Happy hour followed by welcome reception
- Wednesday 2nd day of show, another happy hour, performance from Mr Holland
- Thursday Brendan arrived
- Strolled La Rambla
- Sea of red rooves
- Signature Antoni Gaudí designed buildings
- Neo-Gothic architecture
- Santa Maria del Mar – church funded and built entirely by the working class people
- El Born Cultural Centre – a former market hall, now an archaeological showcase
- Huge Sagrada Familia
- Dinner at Taller de Tapas in Barceloneta (would recommend!)
- Chairlift up to Montjuic Castle, a former military fortress
- From 5 star accommodation Monday-Thursday, to a €66 hostel on Friday night
- Had plenty of chorizo, tapas, paella (its actually pronounced like pay-ay-ah), and sangria
- Possibility of Catalonia and Barcelona becoming independent of Spain



Wednesday, 18 November 2015

Week 32 in London

Week 32: 9 – 15 November

Located just across the road from Brendan’s office is the flagship store of The Conran Shop, set in a stylish art-deco style building that was historically the British headquarters of Michelin tyres. The Conran Shop is a retailer of luxury furniture and home wares, and their window displays provide an elaborate kaleidoscope of colour. The impressive window displays are regularly changed; this month’s Christmas theme is Christmas in Space.


Also spotted outside The Conran Shop was a Ferrari estate/station wagon. Having never seen anything like this before, Brendan had to get a photo.


Apparently during the mid 1990’s, Prince Jefri Bolkiah of Brunei commissioned the design team, Pininfarina, to design and build 7 Ferrari 456 GT Venice estates. It is also believed that for some reason, the Prince only ended up taking delivery of 6 of the vehicles. Prince Jefri was also Brunei’s Finance Minister for about a decade up until the late 90’s, when it was alleged he had misappropriated billions (yes, billions) of dollars, at a time when his personal car collection was in the thousands. Coincidentally, Prince Jefri and the Brunei Royals are also linked to The Dorchester where we'd had afternoon tea only the weekend prior.

We went to Harrods on Thursday evening to find Christmas treats to send home.


The weekend was marred by news on Saturday morning of the Paris terror attacks. On Saturday morning we went along with Adam and Lauren to buy a real living, pine needle dropping Christmas tree. We headed down to nearby Battersea Park, where a Christmas tree vendor was only an hour or so into the first day of trade – they hadn’t even finished unpacking the truck yet. We became the second people for the year to have bought a tree.


A few weeks earlier an Aussie company called Down Under Box that specialises in sending Australian snacks across the world, had been running a Facebook competition to win one of their boxes. Brendan was one such winner, and so we collected our box of Tim Tams, Vegemite, Twisties, Tiny Teddies, Caramello Koalas, ANZAC Biscuits, Fantales, Minties, Eucalyptus Drops and Milo (http://bit.ly/1H9i18b).


Later that afternoon we went across to Aussies in London drinks at trendy hipster-town Shoreditch. Roslyn departed early to go to a private viewing of Goya: The Portraits at The National Gallery (http://bit.ly/1OYYUMp).

On Sunday we went right into the centre of the CBD to 20 Fenchurch Street, a modern skyscraper only completed in April 2014 and known by the nickname the Walkie-Talkie. Occupying the 35th to 37th floors, SkyGarden prides itself on being London’s highest public garden. Wandering around the lush landscaping, the huge swathes of glass that envelope the space makes it feel almost like you are in a giant terrarium. Which essentially, you kind of are.


The building itself has been criticised for melting cars due to reflection off the huge glass and metal structure, as well as for causing a wind-tunnel effect at street level. While it is free to the public, tickets to the SkyGarden have to be booked in advance, and bookings are only released a few weeks out. Although SkyGarden has been criticised by some for not living up to the pre-construction artists impressions, the fact that the developers have been able to create a lush living garden 35 floors above the city is still something we certainly found impressive!

Highlights for the week:
- Christmas displays at The Conran Shop
- Ferrari wagon spotted
- Christmas shopping at Harrods
- Bought a Christmas tree
- Received our Down Under Box
- Aussies in London drinks
- Roslyn went to a private viewing of Goya at The National Gallery
- 20 Fenchurch Street, ‘Walkie-Talkie’
- SkyGarden




Thursday, 12 November 2015

Week 31 in London

Week 31: 2 – 8 November 2015

Home from our Copenhagen getaway and we got straight into booking another adventure. In April 2016, we are now booked in to cruise around Ireland with Nola and Stacey (Brendan’s mum and sister) in a campervan.

On Tuesday Roslyn turned our bedroom into her boardroom on a work-from-home day. Pushing paper in her pyjamas so to speak. She gets to do this every Tuesday, because London & Partners is a dynamic, switched-on 21st century company! More companies should do this.

Thursday was Guy Fawkes Day and to understand the significance of this, a brief history lesson is required. Back in the early 1600’s, there had been decades of tension and violence between Catholics and Protestants. Catholicism at this time was widely disapproved of and persecuted, and when King James I took the throne, the Catholics had hope that things would change because his wife was a Catholic. Under pressure from his advisors, nothing really improved and discontent amongst Catholics grew. A group of plotters, including Guy Fawkes, conspired together to blow up parliament on 5th November 1605. They had rented a basement storeroom underneath the House of Lords and loaded it up with gunpowder. On the 4th November an anonymous tip off letter was received that sparked a search of parliament, and the subsequent discovery of Guy Fawkes with the gunpowder. He and the other co-conspirators were either killed, or arrested and later executed. Ever since then, the 5th November has been known as Guy Fawkes Day/Bonfire Night/Firework Night.

On this same evening, the 410th anniversary, Roslyn had a dinner at St James’s Palace, the host of which was Prince Andrew. Notably, part of St James’s Palace is the London residence for Prince Charles.

At nearby Trafalgar Square, the Million Mask March was taking place, where anti-establishment protesters don Guy Fawkes masks. This peaceful protest descended into chaos when some of the rioters strayed from the agreed route, making their way near Buckingham Palace, and hurling fireworks and flares. Police and their horses were also targeted; lasers shone into their eyes and by the end of the night a police car had been torched. Due to the close proximity of St James’s Palace to all of this madness, the Palace was placed into lockdown for 2 hours meaning Roslyn was stuck.


In lieu of fireworks on Thursday, we attended Battersea Park Bonfire Night on Saturday. Despite being cold and rainy throughout the day, at night the temperature was mild and the weather dry. The earlier wet weather and influx of people did however mean the grounds were very muddy and slippery, not ideal conditions for trying to navigate in the darkness.



We indulged in a traditional British afternoon tea for the first time on Sunday afternoon. The Dorchester is a 5 star luxury hotel on Park Lane (if you knowledgeable on Monopoly, you’ll remember that Park Lane is the second most expensive property on the board). If familiarity with the Monopoly board isn’t your strong point, perhaps the cars parked outside could provide more of an insight into the calibre of this establishment. High-end luxury cars in this part of London are a common sight and today’s line-up at the Dorchester forecourt included a super rare and super expensive brown Bugatti along with an equally impressive yellow McLaren. Inside, the hotel exudes traditional opulence.



The process of afternoon tea at the Dorchester ran like this. The menu was delivered, we selected our tea from their special selection and a pot of it was returned shortly after. Finger sandwiches were served, cucumber with cream cheese, egg mayonnaise, chicken with wholegrain mustard mayonnaise, smoked salmon, and roast beef. Pear compote with chocolate ganache and white chocolate followed as a palate cleaner. Next came warm raisin and plain scones, accompanied by homemade strawberry jam, a seasonal plum and citrus jam and Cornish clotted cream. And the finale, a selection of pastries comprised of chocolate brownie with banana and lime, quince and guava tart, chocolate hazelnut and elderflower slice, and a mango and meringue tart. In all, simply divine dahr-ling.


Highlights for the week:
- Booked our Ireland trip with Brendan’s family for April 2016
- Roslyn coordinated a dinner at St James’s Palace
- Rioters resulted in a lock-down of the Palace
- Bonfire Night at Battersea Park
- Drank hot mulled wine
- 5 star Dorchester Hotel for afternoon tea
- Saw a Bugatti and McLaren parked alongside each other
- Oxford Street Christmas lights





Tuesday, 10 November 2015

Copenhagen, Denmark

Saturday 31st October 2015:

Having asked around in the weeks before our flight, it seemed that Ryanair wasn’t held in the highest regard for either its timeliness or customer service. Admittedly, there are numerous cues that make it clear that this is a budget airline but overall our experience was great. Our hour and a half long flight departed and arrived on time, and we touched down in Copenhagen around 11:20am, Saturday local time.

Given that we were really only spending 2 half days in Copenhagen, this getaway was like the holiday equivalent of Diet Coke or Skim Milk.

One of the very first things we noticed was that there are bikes everywhere. They cycle all down the streets and then banks of parked cycles line the footpaths. We dropped our bags off at the Generator Hostel, the London equivalent of which was our home for the first few weeks after our Contiki. Next, we went down to Rådhuspladsen (Town Hall Square) to join a Sandemans free walking tour. 


Rådhuspladsen sits opposite Tivoli Gardens, the second oldest amusement park in the world. It is believed that Walt Disney was inspired by Tivoli Gardens to create Disneyland in California.

Along the walking tour, we viewed the court house which sits on the public square Nytorv (New Market), adjoining Gammeltorv (Old Market) which together form a large open square. We learned that through history, there have been 2 fires that ravaged the city and destroyed most of the buildings on both occasions. As a result, many of the buildings throughout Copenhagen are the second or third incarnations of the originals.

We passed the house where the inventor of Carlsberg beer was born, and headed down towards Christiansborg Palace, which contains the Danish Parliament, the Supreme Court, and the Ministry of State. The current Christiansborg Palace is the third on the site due to the other 2 having been destroyed by fire, and was originally the home of the Royal family. One of the oldest churches in the city is the Nikolaj Church and like many churches throughout Copenhagen, no longer functions as a church but is now home to the Copenhagen Contemporary Art Centre and a restaurant.


We passed the grand Magasin du Nord department store, which is linked to the British department store Debenhams, and sits opposite the Royal Danish Theatre and Kongens Nytorv (King's New Square). Unfortunately as is the case with much of Europe, construction has taken over Kongens Nytorv, hiding majority of the square and the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts from view.


We stopped for a break at Baresso. Considering that this is merely a Danish coffee chain, the hot chocolates were amazing! Immersed in the cup of hot milk were 3 sticks, each with a solid hunk of milk, dark and white chocolate.


Onwards to Hyhavn (translates to New Harbour), originally a busy commercial port but today many of the colourful old houses have been transformed into bars and restaurants.


Hans Christian Andersen is one of Denmark’s most iconic individuals, having written fairy tales such as Thumbelina, The Princess and the Pea, The Little Mermaid, The Ugly Duckling and The Snow Queen (which inspired Disney’s Frozen). Still standing at number 20 Nyhavn is his former home, a large pink-red building.


We continued around to Amalienborg, a complex of 4 almost identical palaces arranged around an octagonal courtyard. Christian VII’s Palace (Queen’s guest residence), Christian VIII’s Palace (guest residence), Frederik VIII’s Palace (residence of Crown Prince Frederik and Crown Princess Mary) and Christian IX’s Palace (royal couple's official residence) are fine examples of Danish architecture, and act as the winter homes of the Danish royal family, including Australian born Crown Princess Mary.



Designed by the same architect, Nicolai Eigtved, the impressive Marble Church also lies on the Amalienborg axis. Following the commencement of construction in 1749 the architect died in 1754, and the church was not completed for almost 150 years until 1894.



With darkness looming, we returned to the hostel before heading out for dinner. Side note, “traditional” Danish food is not very interesting.

On Sunday morning, we headed into town to scope out a souvenir and explore Strøget, Europe’s longest pedestrian shopping street. We passed the Round Tower, unique in that there are no stairs or elevator inside. Instead, visitors reach the top via a spiralling ramp – unfortunately we didn’t have enough time to go in.


We wandered past Rosenborg Castle, the former home of Scandinavian king Christian IV.


The Little Mermaid statue in honour of Hans Christian Anderson is a bit isolated and in all honesty an underwhelming experience, but hey, she is an icon of Copenhagen nonetheless.


Considering all the criticism we’d heard about Ryanair, our return flight home was also faultless and on time. The same couldn’t be said for the bus transfer we’d booked from Luton airport back into London. Having proceeded through customs and everything else as quickly as we could in order to make the departure time, we stood around outside in the freezing cold waiting for the bus. After a few minutes, a staff member told us that our bus had been cancelled because the driver just decided not to bother today, but we could wait for the next one in half an hour. Helpful.

Given our brief visit, we didn’t get a chance to do everything but at the same time it didn’t feel like we’d wasted our time and missed out on much. We were trying to work out what we could compare Copenhagen to. It’s a bit like a cross between the best parts of Vienna, Austria and Amsterdam, The Netherlands. Not hugely touristy, but our adventures have taught us that sometimes that makes the place even more charming.

Highlights:
- Bikes everywhere
- Hans Christian Anderson
- Tivoli Gardens
- Sandemans free walking tour
- Rådhuspladsen (Town Hall Square)
- Nytorv (New Market) and Gammeltorv (Old Market)
- Carlsberg beer
- Christiansborg Palace
- Nikolaj Church
- Magasin du Nord department store
- Hyhavn (New Harbour)
- Amalienborg
- Australian born Crown Princess Mary
- Marble Church
- Strøget, Europe’s pedestrian shopping street
- LEGO
- Round Tower
- Rosenborg Castle
- Natural History Museum
- National Gallery of Denmark
- The Little Mermaid