Saturday 17th September 2016:
Our trip to Lisbon was at a slightly more leisurely pace
than other trips in recent times, departing from our nearest airport, Gatwick,
at an agreeable 9:50am with easyJet. We caught the metro from the airport to
the central business district and popped back up into daylight at the large
double ringed roundabout of Praça do Marquês de Pombal.
We checked into our hostel, the Lisboa Central Hostel,
revealing what was probably the nicest hostel we have ever stayed at. Our private
double room was better than any budget hotel we’ve ever stayed at, being
spacious, modern and well equipped. Other than our own experiences with the
amazing Portuguese custard tarts, natas, and a list of suggestions from
Roslyn’s colleagues, we didn’t really know much about Lisbon. Gathering a map
and some suggestions from the helpful hostel staff, we set off on foot towards
the old town down the tree lined Avenida da Liberdade. The picturesque scene
with cobblestone pathways and the canopy of trees covering the street, was
further enhanced by the warm temperature and presence of the sun.
We soon stumbled across the bakery/café of Fábrica da Nata
(with which we would become well acquainted). Pastéis de nata (custard tarts)
are without a doubt the store’s staple offering, and if the name of the bakery
didn’t already give it away, in-store signage and the bakery’s own website
further prevent any doubt, by hailing the little tarts as the “hero”.
The tarts sell for €1 each, and while you wait to be served
you can watch on as the pastry chef works away preparing what seems to be an
infinite number of delicious tarts. Every tart that comes out is unique in its
appearance, with varying amounts of perfectly imperfect burnt spots. Depending
on when you’ve arrived and when the last batch was made, the tarts are served
up still warm out of the oven. Tradition has it that the tarts should be
savoured with a sprinkling of cinnamon and icing sugar, and so we embraced some
Portuguese history. Nata tally, 2.
One tart is referred to as a pastel de nata and multiple
tarts are called pastéis de nata. In Belem (where the tarts originated) they
call them pastel de Belem or pastéis de Belem. It’s all a bit confusing, so we
just referred to them natas.
Not far from Fábrica da Nata is the central Rossio Square
where many bustling streets come together, and therefore is almost like the
gateway into old town. The square is framed by Jacaranda trees with their
magnificent blue blooms, and paved with cobblestones in a mesmerising wave
pattern. We continued south, reaching the riverside Commerce Square, where we
saw our first of the iconic Lisbon trams, and then strolled along the river.
We were on the hunt for the Time Out Market and discovered
it in the dome topped market hall known as Mercado da Ribeira. A significant
portion of this market hall has, in recent years, been transformed into large
open food court. . The Time Out Market seemed more targeted at locals than tourists
considering that, amongst the array of international cuisine on offer, there
didn’t really seem to be any vendors of Portuguese food. Still, the market is a
fantastic concept and one that would be great in any city. Indeed after lunch
we discussed locations in London that would be suitable.
From the suggestions provided by Roslyn’s colleagues, there
was one particular bar that kept getting a mention – Park Bar. Trying to find
our way here, we discovered just how hilly Lisbon really is.
The bar is located
on the converted top floor of a seven storey car park and there is nothing
glamorous or high profile about the access from the outside world. From the
street we entered by walking down the side of the car park boom gates, and went
to the highest floor the graffiti-laden lift would go; the lift doors opened to
simply reveal rows of parked cars. We followed the lead of other people in the
lift, through a fire escape door and up to the top level where we could see,
behind a large scratched and discoloured Perspex panel, the shrubbery and
timber decking of the bar’s garden.
Behind all of this scruffiness is a contemporary yet laid
back watering hole, and from this high up it is no surprise that Park Bar
offers great views over the city. When we were there, at mid-afternoon on a
Saturday, the place was already buzzing with people. First the Time Out Market
and now a bar on top of a car park – who’d have guessed that Lisbon is so hip
and trendy?!
It was nearly dinner time so we consulted the list again,
and headed over to a restaurant that had been described to us as “so delicious
and super relaxed and quite hectic”. Perplexed as to how a restaurant could be
super relaxed AND quite hectic, we arrived at Cervejaria Ramiro and queued for
a table. The description we’d been given turned out to be totally fitting and
true, even if it was a complete oxymoron. On our walk back to the hostel we
stopped in again at Fábrica da Nata. Running nata tally, 6.
The itinerary for the next day was to take a tram to Belem,
where the Portuguese custard tarts originated, and then onto the beach. Wanting
to do a back to back comparison between real natas and the ‘others’,
we showed our faces once again in Fábrica da Nata and bought 2 to take with us
to Belem. Running nata tally, 8. We boarded a tram but at a holding yard in a
dingy industrial area were ejected prematurely with no connecting tram to
board. We weren’t too far from Belem and so walked the rest of the way. We
passed under the huge 25th of April Bridge (Ponte 25 de Abril) which almost
resembles America’s Golden Gate Bridge.
Pastéis de Belém dates back to 1897 and
is the original Portuguese custard tart bakery. Here, the tarts
aren’t referred to as pastéis de nata but instead by the bakery’s own name. We
stood in the queue that stretched out of the store and along the front façade
of the building, and eventually made our purchase of 6 natas. Running nata
tally, 14. Sitting in a park nearby, we ate the Belem and Lisbon tarts back to
back to compare the differences.
The Belem tarts had a crispier pastry and pleasantly less
sugary-tasting custard to the Lisbon versions. The Lisbon tarts from Fábrica
are definitely very tasty, but the Belem tarts are the national treasure.
On the metro we followed the coastline past several beaches,
until we reached our next destination from the list, Estoril Monte. The overall
visual scenery resembled that of a sandy European beach on a warm summers day
but even though the sun was out, the temperature wasn't toasty. The water was also
quite cold, Brendan got in but Roslyn didn't make it beyond wetting her
feet.
Returning to Lisbon for dinner, we headed to Sea Me. Sea Me
is a combination of restaurant, sushi bar, and fish market. The seafood we
enjoyed here was amazing; not cheap but rarely do we eat seafood anyway.
Strolling back to the hostel and the streets and squares of
the city were alive with activity. Fábrica da Nata welcomed us again for
an evening tart and glass of port. Running nata tally, 15.
Monday morning and we walked down to Rossia Square again to
join a free walking tour. We were guided around the oldest part of the city,
the Alfama district. Along the way we climbed many stairs, ascended and
descended many hills and took in some amazing sights from the higher points. Through
the area of São Cristóvão e São Lourenço we started, going by what was pointed
out as possibly the worlds smallest bookshop. It wasn’t open so unfortunately
we couldnt see inside, but our guide said the total space is 3 sq m. This area
is also replete with colourful street art, many of which there was a story
behind. We were also introduced to the Portuguese liquer ginja, made from sour
cherries. The views from up here, particularly from Miradouro do Chão do Loureiro
and also at the Portas do Sol lookout were spectacular.
We finished up at the Lisbon Cathedral then headed off for a quick lunch, and a final lot of natas and lazy afternoon port at Fábrica. Nata tally now at 19. Finally, we made our way across to the Praça da Figueira square and jumped onto one of the historic trams for a lap of the city before we had to head back home.
Final nata tally for our three days in Lisbon, 19.
Highlights:- Lisboa Central Hostel - nicest hostel we have been to
- Tree lined Avenida da Liberdade
- Became regular customers at Fábrica da Nata
- Tiled building façades
- Ate plenty of natas and great seafood
- Rossio Square
- Saw our first trams in Commerce Square
- Time Out Market at Mercado da Ribeira
- Car park rooftop bar, Park Bar
- Relaxed yet hectic dinner at Cervejaria Ramiro
- Complimentary pancake breakfast from hostel
- Tram ride to Belem
- 25th of April Bridge
- Authentic Pastéis de Belém
- Estoril Monte beach
- Restaurant/sushi bar/fish market Sea Me
- Walking tour of Alfama district
- Portuguese liquer ginja
- Views from Miradouro do Chão do Loureiro and Portas do Sol lookouts
- Lisbon Cathedral
- Rode on an historic tram
- "Milkshake Monday" at the hostel
