Wednesday, 21 December 2016

Dubai, United Arab Emirates

Sunday 11th December 2016

With very mixed emotions, we dragged all of our belongings from the hotel across to the airport terminal early on the morning of Sunday 11th December 2016. Weighing our bags, we were forced to throw on a few extra layers of clothing before the attendant would finally agree to let our bags through.

When scanning our carry on luggage, Brendan was pulled aside and questioned about something that was showing as potential liquid. The officer identified the suspect item, a small silver tin which turned out to contain a very red coloured spice mix, and asked what it was however remained cagey about showing Brendan what it was she was holding. Not remembering every single item in the bags, he said he thought it may have been a candle. Still keeping the tin close to her and not showing Brendan much, the officer decided to force the lid open (complete with label clearly identifying it as spice mix). This genius idea was conducted whilst holding it over the bag, comprised mainly of presents and with white clothing at the top. Awkwardly jamming the lid off, spice mix flew everywhere to her surprise and her meagre attempt at an apology included the words “at least it smells nice”. Onwards to the plane and seven hours later we arrived in Dubai, where it was evening.

Fortunately Gemma and Joel were waiting for us with their car; we loaded it up and were whisked away through the city. Despite the darkness, the lights of the night gave us a hint at the remarkable size of the city and scale of the buildings. In the mostly residential district of Al Safouh, we arrived at their apartment where there are surrounding construction sites aplenty. From the kitchen window, there are views to the luxury Atlantis resort.

The following morning, Monday, we accompanied Gemma into her office, just off the mouthful of a street name Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Boulevard in the CBD of Downtown Dubai. We left her to be productive and headed outside to take in the sight of the world’s tallest tower, the monolithic Burj Khalifa. 


The pristine appearance of the decorative Burj Khalifa Lake and surrounding manicured landscaping were amazing. We headed around the lake and into the huge Dubai Mall, to the base of Burj Khalifa to ascend the 828 metre tall tower. Being only just after 8am, there wasn’t much in the mall that was yet open.

We purchased the standard ‘At the Top’ tickets enabling access to Levels 124 and 125, at 452 and 456 metres above ground. You can also pay extra to reach Level 148 but we figured the view would be about the same, just everything would look smaller.

On Level 124 you can go outside onto an outdoor viewing terrace encased, of course, by swathes of pristine glass barriers. The views are astounding and the scenery beautifully varied, the towers of the business districts and immense landscaping, dotted residential areas, vast sandy deserts, and the shimmering blue waters of the Persian Gulf.



Ascending the spiral staircase to Level 125, Brendan was ambushed by staff determined to get him to take part in pulling obscure poses for their green screen photography. Somehow Roslyn made it past undetected. Interactive digital telescopes placed at various intervals along the floor provided an interesting look at the city with the ability to switch between live viewing, night time scenery and historic imagery. There were also hanging pod chairs to laze about whilst looking down on the world below.

As we were on our way out and back down to land it was obvious that the early rise had been worth it, there were now masses of tourist groups gathered on the outdoor terrace resulting in people waiting around for an empty glass pane to stand in front of for a photo.

We were back in the mall and although it had barely cracked midday, our early start meant we were about ready for lunch. Gemma had recommended the Lebanese Al-Hallab Restaurant, both because of its food quality and also for the balcony view out to the Dubai Fountain – the world’s largest choreographed water display.

What ensued was a bit of a bizarre back and forth between us and the restaurant staff. We first entered and headed outside to lock in a table with a good view of the fountain, expecting a water show to take place at 1pm and 1:30pm as per what we’d read online and what Gemma had told us. We stayed out there for around 20 minutes before a staff member told us they weren’t serving food on the balcony and moved us back inside. When we questioned whether we could sit there to see the fountain at 1pm, he said there was no show today. Confused but hungry nonetheless, we moved inside and ordered food. A few minutes before 1pm Brendan moved back outside, not convinced that 1) the waiter knew what he was talking about regarding the fountain and 2) the waiter even understood what we had been asking.

As expected the water show commenced at 1pm, choreographed to music and dancing throughout the lake. Returning inside for food, the fountain put on its performance again half an hour later with a varied soundtrack and different choreography.


We strolled the mall for a while after lunch, keen to stay indoors out of the heat, sighting a significant number of familiar brands from the UK, America and Australia – could this be attested to Dubai’s large number of expat residents? When we eventually felt brave enough to head back outdoors we boarded the Dubai Trolley, unaware that the heritage-styled and free to ride trolley is more of a tourist gimmick than a viable form of public transport. As it turned out, we’d boarded at the middle of three stops and so our journey consisted of heading up the street to the end of the line, then heading back to the stop we’d just gotten on at, and continuing on to the other end of the line, returning finally to the stop we’d boarded at. A comedic adventure further enhanced by our spotting of multiple buildings that looked like famous buildings from other cities around the world, examples included New York’s Chrysler Building.


The four of us went for dinner at the Mall of the Emirates, where Joel and Gemma showed us to the huge indoor artificial ski fields. That evening, we had our first experience of playing Cards Against Humanity - slow bloomers, we know...

Tuesday we’d devoted to one of Dubai’s most significant and popular attractions and Roslyn’s one non-negotiable Dubai activity – Aquaventure Waterpark at the luxurious Atlantis resort. Tickets courtesy of Brendan's family for his birthday. Located on Dubai’s iconic manmade palm shaped island, Palm Jumeirah, we’d been tantalisingly close for the last day and a half given that we could see the distinctive Atlantis building from Gemma and Joel’s apartment. Gemma had taken the day off work and also joined us.


We started by grabbing a tube each and then floated around the interconnected rivers that stretch throughout the park, through calm and sedate waterways and onto the more exciting Torrent and Rapids. Some of the rivers even lead up to other water coasters, how easy (or lazy…) is that?!

Aside from the meandering rivers, there are two towers at Aquaventure that house different  waterslides – Tower of Neptune and Tower of Poseidon. Brendan and Roslyn dared the aptly named Leap of Faith where we hurtled down an open nine storey water slide, shooting through a clear tube surrounded by aquarium sea creatures including sharks and rays. Shark Attack required us to don a tube once again, as we travelled down an enclosed water slide and through an aquarium tank full of marine life.



Following lunch we climbed the stairs up to the Tower of Poseidon, where the rides were a bit more adrenaline fuelled than those in Tower of Neptune. Here we discovered our favourite ride of the day, the Aquaconda, where a group of us were all put together into a large donut and we swirled and swished our way down the huge waterslide. We really enjoyed this one, and went on it several times over! Brendan also had a go on the Slitherine (not too dissimilar to the earlier Leap of Faith) as well as the horrific Poseidon’s Revenge. Step into a capsule and wait. Wait as there is a countdown until the moment the floor falls out from beneath you and you plummet at high speed through the enclosed tunnel. This one turned out to be more scary and painful than it was an adrenaline rush of fun, with Brendan coming out the other end with bruises and scratches from having slid around bends, in the dark, and upside down through the hard, enclosed tube at great haste (the Atlantis website says up to 60 kph).

We finished our visit at Atlantis with a walk through of the impressive Lost Chambers Aquarium.

 

After picking Joel up from work, we headed out to the bizarre Global Village. Touted as “Dubai’s leading family entertainment and cultural attraction”, Global Village is like a cross between a market and theme park. There are around 30 pavilions, each representing and themed around a different country.



A full day of riding waterslides, compounded with three days in a row of early starts and we were simply exhausted. By the time we woke on Wednesday morning, we weren’t really up for anything too strenuous. We caught the metro down to the Mall of the Emirates for a bit more of a look around. On the topic of the metro, the Dubai metro stations are simply named as per whatever company or brand has “bought” the naming rights. Instead of being named after their locality or a nearby landmark, Gemma told us the names of stations regularly change and it makes it hard to give accurate directions to people.

From the mall we headed across to the Palm Jumeirah Monorail for a ride taking in views across the Palm, out to the sea, and over the Atlantis resort. A bit like the trolley (though unfortunately not free) the monorail is, for now anyway, more of a tourist gimmick than a viable form of transport. Along the way we did pass by two other fully built but non-operational stations.

From the monorail we headed down to the Dubai Marina for our water sightseeing tour aboard The Yellow Boats, also a birthday present for Brendan from Roslyn's family. We opted for the all-inclusive 90 minute Tour 1, starting with the impressive and ultra-modern marina. Out of the marina, the yellow inflatable boat turned from sedate sightseer to rapid thrillseeker, bounding over waves and turning at an almost vertical angle. Surprisingly, this was all much to the enjoyment of all passengers.


We cruised around Palm Jumeirah sighting the uber luxurious villas and five star hotels, with a stop at the peak of the palm to view Atlantis, and onwards to the stunning Burj al-Arab. The Burj al-Arab is the building sometimes referred to as the world’s only seven star hotel and its distinctive design is based upon a ship’s sail.


We’d chosen a great time to go out, with our start time of 4:15pm beginning the cruise in the daylight and we then got to watch as the city transitioned into the evening.



For our final night in Dubai, we met Joel and Gemma at the Madinat Jumeriah hotel complex where we had dinner and cocktails at Trader Vics restaurant. Important to note that of the various eateries and “bars” we’d been to during the past few days this was the first that was part of a hotel and therefore sold alcohol, due to the UAE’s strict laws around alcohol.

Gemma dropped us at the airport Thursday morning. Unluckily for us, the weight allowances at Dubai Airport were much more strictly enforced than in London. Wary of our how heavy our luggage already was, we’d specifically not bought anything else in Dubai. After a bit of reshuffling, the checked luggage made it through ok but at the gates we were then forced to weigh our hand luggage and it was here that we came unstuck. Pulling everything out of our bags in a desperate attempt to shed weight, we threw out an assortment of random items that probably shouldn’t have made it into the bags in the first place, and Brendan ended up going through the gates wearing three pairs of trousers.

We made it onto the plane and reflected on the last 21 months and our fantastic adventure, having travelled to an amazing 34 different countries and creating a lifetime of wonderful memories.

The anticipation was that once the plane took off we’d be up for a short layover in Bangkok, Thailand, and then be landing back in Australia all in time for the lunch we’d already booked by the harbour. But it wasn’t supposed to be. Poor weather conditions resulted in a late landing in Bangkok and we were rushed through the airport to board the plane once again. It would be another four hours before we were in the air again.

We drifted in and out of sleep during this time but initially the plane made an attempt at taking off, we’d even taxied out to the runway, however a medical emergency on board (which we never learnt the outcome of) meant that the plane had to be grounded. There we sat for a lengthy period of time (hours) awaiting advice from medical staff, and eventually taxied back in to the gates where the passengers and their baggage were unloaded. Once all of this had taken place, we were finally allowed to taxi back out to the run way where we had to wait in the queue before we could take to the air for the homeward stretch.

The flight we’d booked was scheduled to arrive at 8:45am Thursday, Sydney time, but didn’t hit the tarmac until about midday. With the time it took us to disembark, clear customs and collect baggage, we were finally able to see and hug our families at around 1:30pm. And as we were soon told, whilst waiting for us they’d spent most of the day standing beside Richard Wilkins and Collette Dinnigan who’d been waiting for their daughter! 


Highlights:
- Downtown Dubai
- Burj Khalifa, ‘At the Top’ access to Levels 124 and 125
- Amazing sky-high outdoor viewing terrace
- Dubai Mall
- Lunch at Al-Hallab Restaurant
- Choreographed water show of Dubai Fountain
- Rode the Dubai Trolley
- Spotted buildings that looked similar to other famous landmark buildings…
- Aquaventure Waterpark at the Atlantis resort
- Lost Chambers Aquarium
- Global Village
- Rode the metro through various branded stations
- Saw the indoor ski fields of Ski Dubai at Mall of the Emirates
- Palm Jumeirah Monorail
- Sightseeing tour on The Yellow Boats
- Dubai Marina
- Palm Jumeirah
- Burj al-Arab
- Dinner and cocktails at Trader Vics at Madinat Jumeriah hotel complex
- Last minute cull of belongings at the airport and three layers of trousers




Tuesday, 13 December 2016

Week 88 in London

Week 88: 5 - 11 December 2016

After 88 weeks in London and countless adventures, sadly this was our last. LLLL

On Wednesday evening we went to Somerset House for ice skating. Prior to getting our skates on we went into Fortnum's Lodge, by renowned department store Fortnum and Mason, for indulgent hot chocolates. Unlike the year before at Hyde Park the ice was far less crowded and there was also a small practice rink, so we actually managed to refresh our skills enough to be able to "skate" without needing to clutch the walls for dear life.


Thursday marked a number of milestones - 21 months since having departed Australia, plus Brendan's birthday, his last day of UK employment, and work Christmas party. With most colleagues also being aware of Brendan's triple whammy, he made it through the day without paying for anything, and also received a classy monogrammed passport wallet as a farewell gift. Meanwhile, Roslyn went out for a farewell dinner with Mel.

A belated arrival, Suella finally received her birthday present.


Roslyn headed off to work for the final time on Friday, while Brendan faced the overwhelming task of trying to pack and just generally finalise our lives. A task that seemed all the more monumental by lingering intoxication and a subsequent hangover.

After logging off for the last time on Friday afternoon, Roslyn had her farewell party. Plenty of colleagues turned out, including some who she hadn't engaged with that much, testament to her presence around the office.

We rose on Saturday, Roslyn today being the one in a rough state, and continued with packing our last remaining belongings whilst also trying to evenly distribute the weight between our bags. 

At 1pm we met our driver, Sam, and Mini Cooper, Lulu, from smallcarBIGCITY at St James's Park for an afternoon tour zipping through the streets of central London. Although we'd seen it all before, we requested to be taken on a touristy route so we could see all the major sights for one last time.


Past Westminster Abbey, up The Mall, Buckingham Palace, through the streets of Mayfair, Piccadilly Circus, past Trafalgar Square and into the very narrow and easily missable Craig's Court. The history behind Craig's Court was most interesting; we learnt that when the small cul de sac was originally created it was at the northern tip of the then royal residence, Whitehall Palace. Whitehall Palace was all but destroyed by fire in 1698, however William Stanhope, 1st Earl of Harrington, thought that the palace would be rebuilt and seized an opportunity to purchase what he thought was a piece of prime land in Craig’s Court, assuming that the royals would soon be his neighbours. He constructed the grand Harrington House, however unluckily for him, the royals never returned instead moving westward to St James’s Palace (and many years later onto Buckingham Palace).

When Arthur Onslow, the Speaker of the House of Commons, attempted to visit William Stanhope he arrived in a large horse drawn carriage. The carriage was too wide to fit down the narrow laneway and became stuck. In the end, an embarrassed and infuriated Onslow had to be cut out of the roof of the carriage. Back in parliament, he soon passed a law that all households must have kerbstones outside to mark the width of the road, thereby evolving into the formalised pavements we see everywhere today.

Today, Harrington House and most of the other buildings in Craig’s Court unglamorously house a telephone exchange and, reportedly, an entry/exit point to a network of secret tunnels.

Later we were taken to another hidden surprise, the Leake Street tunnel near Waterloo Station. Sam told us that the tunnel has been closed to vehicular traffic since Eurostar services were relocated from Waterloo in 2007 and since then has become a legal graffiti area. Sam gave us a set of pens, and we added our own message to the colour-laden walls.



Following a final lap over Westminster Bridge and past the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben and Westminster Abbey, our driving tour of the city concluded. :(


Going out in style, the ritzy five star hotel in Mayfair, The Langham, hosted us for afternoon tea at 5:30pm. Festive egg nog, gourmet finger sandwiches, scones and an assortment of intricately decorated Christmas pastries kept us well fed whilst enjoying the glitzy surroundings.


Once afternoon tea had ended it was time to stroll back outside, in the rain, and return to our flat for a final farewell and to collect our belongings. Loading nearly two years worth of our life into the back of an Uber, we headed to the station and boarded the train bound for Gatwick Airport.

Being unsure as to how close to the weight limits our luggage was, we headed inside where the check in desk was closed however a lonely baggage handler was sat. We then proceeded to weigh each bag, determining which items of clothing were the heaviest and that we would wear the next day, and discarding anything that wasn’t vital to make it to Australia.

Once we’d sorted that out, it was over to the Premier Inn for our final night in London.

Highlights for the week:
- Ice skating at Somerset House
- Brendan's birthday
- Brendan's Christmas party/final day at work
- Roslyn at dinner with Mel
- Suella received her birthday present
- Roslyn farewell party
- Mini Cooper tour of London with smallcarBIGCITY 
- Craig’s Court
- Leake Street tunnel
- Afternoon tea at The Langham
- Moved out of our flat LLLL


Wednesday, 7 December 2016

Week 87 in London

Week 87: 28 November – 4 December 2016

As Roslyn was working in Barcelona through to Thursday, Brendan was left to carry on “Life in London” solo for most of the week. We were still in the last few days of November but winter was sneaking through early, with a crisp 0°C to start the day on Tuesday. In the evening he went across to the West End, where The Infinite Mix had been set up in an abandoned office block. Marketed as an audiovisual art exhibition, there were ten short films spread throughout the dark and decaying building and reminded him a bit of Tropfest in Australia.

Wednesday morning was even colder, Brendan emerging from the flat to the sight of frost covered cars and a temperature of -3°C.



In the evening he went in search of Christmas lights, walking from work past the lights in Duke of York Square and Sloane Square, and then on the tube over to Oxford Street. Packed with Christmas shoppers and tourists, it was a struggle even to get out of the station as masses of people were stood motionless on the footpaths. From there it was onto Carnaby Street, down Regent Street to Piccadilly Circus and Leicester Square. By chance he saw someone from back in Australia.

There was a big party on Wednesday night for Roslyn in Barcelona, and she didn’t return to her hotel until after 3am. The next morning she and plenty of the other exhibition staff from across the globe returned to their stands, feeling worse for wear.


On Thursday evening and the first official day of winter, Chelsea-based pub The Phene hosted a Winter Garden opening party with complimentary mulled wine and fruit mince pies. Brendan went along with colleagues Laura, Nadine and Wendy where Lucy and Tiffany Watson (of Made in Chelsea fame and whose father conveniently also owns the pub), had been advertised as being in attendance to officiate events. A bartender called for everyone’s attention, the garden lights were turned off, he delivered a brief speech and then the Watson sisters flicked the lights back on without either of them saying anything to the crowd. After those fleeting few minutes they disappeared and weren’t seen again.


Roslyn returned on Thursday night and we then went together to see Winter Wonderland in Hyde Park and the lights of Oxford Street on Friday night. Earlier in the evening, Roslyn went for drinks with Florence from work, while Brendan went to check out the John Lewis winter roof garden complete with private garden lodges available for reservation.



Roslyn left home early on Saturday to attend Beauty Con with Florence and Isabella, meeting up prior to nab a cronut from Dominique Ansel Bakery (flavour of the month - Gianduja (hazlenut milk chocolate) with English Rose Jam). Florence being quite skilled in the art of instagramming food achieved an image that Dominique Ansel should be using for marketing. Indeed the official Dominique Ansel account liked the photo, quite a feat considering how many of the photogenic pastries are posted. 


In the meantime Brendan strolled the areas around Embankment and Covent Garden, before we met up again for lunch at Homeslice pizzeria, where they serve gigantic 20 inch pizzas.

Later we joined the elite in Knightsbridge, calling in to Harrods and having a look at their Christmas displays.


On Sunday we headed around the corner from home for a traditional British Sunday roast lunch at The Four Thieves pub. Soft lighting and lots of dark wood downstairs make this appear like a run of the mill old-fashioned English pub, but then the entire top floor houses a large and unexpected games room with arcade games and even mini golf.

Following lunch we trekked over to admire Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament as the sun descended behind the historic buildings.

Highlights for the week:
- Roslyn in Barcelona at IBTM World
- Early winter temperatures of 0°C and -3°C in the mornings
- Christmas lights
- Winter Garden opening party at The Phene with Lucy and Tiffany Watson
- Winter Wonderland
- Beauty expo
- Dominique Ansel Bakery
- Homeslice pizzeria
- Harrods
- Sunday roast at The Four Thieves
- Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament